Chapter 29 – Welcome to the Jungle…

May 22, 2012

…”we got fun ‘n’ games”. The bugs ate me alive, I broke my speedometer, tent, laptop, sleeping pad and got stuck in Brazilian customs. Oh…and then there were the snakes…Fun ‘n’ games? Oh yeah…

100% Deet!? Hah…the bugs laughed in my face!

What did I find poking around in this Venezuelan swamp?

…Read the rest of Chapter 29


Chapter 28 – The Altiplano

December 24, 2011

Trip distance and Time trip correct at La Paz, Bolivia on 28/11/11

More photos in the galleries Bolivia 2011 Chile 2011Argentina 2011

The motorcyclists amongst you may also like the

‘Trails of South America…a photo journal’ gallery which supports my ADV Rider thread

Continued from Chapter 27…

After a painless border crossing at Copacabana (I’d exited Bolivia there in 2009 and so knew the system) I rode on to La Paz only to arrive at Hostel El Careterro just as Mark & Claire appeared on foot to take a look at the place. They’d been staying elsewhere but soon moved when they realized how much they could save my moving to El Careterro.

Bolivian policeman Amadeo Condori was impressed with Rosie!

…read the rest of Chapter 28

Chapter 27 – “Here comes the sun…do do do do…”

September 23, 2011

Trip distance and Time trip correct at Peru/Bolivia border 11/08/11

More photos in the Peru 2011 gallery

The motorcyclists amongst you may also like the

‘Trails of South America…a photo journal’ gallery which supports my ADV Rider thread


When I first properly looked at the map of Peru I was immediately struck by the potential to traverse it along the Andes, primarily on dirt roads. Despite a government TV advert claiming 10k km of new roads had been built (or should that be ‘surfaced’?) I still rode 3193km of dirt; almost 50% of my total distance in the country. The graph below shows how much of that time was in the mountains.

GPS profile of Peru 2011 route

…read the rest of Chapter 27

Chapter 26 – “Rain drops keep falling on my head…”

August 27, 2011

Trip distance and Time trip correct at Ecuador/Peru border 16/06/11

More photos in the Ecuador gallery

I was a little nervous as I rolled down the hill to the border, filtering past a long queue of traffic in the rain as my Temporary Import Permit for Rosie had expired whilst I’d been back in GB attending my niece’s 1st birthday and best mate’s wedding. As a result I was hoping to bypass customs, go straight to Immigration and then ski across the across the border to Ecuador unnoticed. Mike at Casa Blanca Hostel in Cali had told me how the border was laid out and so as everyone queued for the customs window I slipped down the outside, around the back to the carpark and walked into the empty ‘Migracion’ office where I quickly got stamped out. For once the rain was probably doing me a favor as no officials were outside wandering around. Once across the bridge I was directed to a parking space by an Ecuadorian Policeman and I relaxed and grabbed a quick coffee outside the photocopy shop.

…read the rest of Chapter 26

Chapter 25 – South to South America

May 14, 2011

“What do you mean you want the receipt for my tourist visa!!!???…How could I have entered without paying for it!?”

The ‘migracion’ officer was adamant I pay again and gave me a form to take to the bank opposite. I was adamant I wasn’t going to pay again and so began our Mexican stand-off. To let him know I was prepared for a long wait I removed my crash helmet, donned my sun hat and shades but refused to move away from the window.

I’m not sure exactly what changed but after several minutes a different voice asked me for my passport and I handed it to a different officer who stamped me out without question.

Read the rest of this entry »

Chapter 21 – Back on the Road

May 12, 2010

NB – This update also includes the ‘Suzuki’ tab

There’s something cozy and secure about being tucked up inside your tent, warm and dry, whilst listening to the wind howling through the trees outside. It’s a primeval feeling like a subconscious return to the womb; or am I just rambling on, talking bollocks…?

I’ve spent 27 of the past 31 nights in my 6’ x 3’ home and I’ve finally pitched it somewhere for long enough to write something. So here I am, listening to the sound of the Colorado River as it heads for the Grand Canyon, typing what I hope will be a worthy summary of the past…bloody hell…has it really been 5 months!!?? …Continued in Chapter 21

Chapter 20 – The Early Retirement of Lady P

January 6, 2010

Will she hold…leaving La Paz

Graham & Graham were the first English overlanders I’d met since meeting Richard Harwood in Chile back in January. Young Graham (22) had flown his bike into Toronto in April and ridden north to the ice roads before turning south to cross the USA. Old(er) Graham had started in Los Angeles and the pair met in Guatemala, joining forces for the ride through Central America. We stood on the roadside for an hour or so having a good chat, swapping stories and info. At 4000m the sun on the road from La Paz to Lake Titicaca was pretty intense and after so long in the shade of the city I’d forgotten just how quickly my head burnt. After six months without seeing another overlander I was clearly back on the ‘Gringo’ trail; not since leaving Brian & Fie in Thailand in March 2007 had I seen three British number plates together.

Meeting Graham & Graham outside La Paz, Bolivia

…continued in Chapter 20…